Food, Wine and other Beverages

Enoteca Corsi: Unspoiled Cultural Heritage in Rome

Enoteca Corsi, Rome: Restaurant Review

Enoteca Corsi

Strolling down the Via del Gesù, in Rome’s historic center, our stare wanders, thoughts waxing lyrical about the splendid Renaissance palazzos and glorious church facades. In the Largo Argentina area–steps away from major sites like the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Piazza Venezia and Campo de’Fiori–wisdom and appetite will inevitably direct epicurean travelers to harbor in front of the Enoteca Corsi’s double entrance. A place suspended in the stillness of time. [pullquote]… steps away from major sites like the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Piazza Venezia and Campo de’ Fiori[/pullquote]

At the Enoteca Corsi, Rome, the paned glass doorway leads into the osteria’s dining room. Deco tiles, wooden chairs, sturdy tables, a vintage scale, aged copper pots and the overhead chandelier made with an old horse-drawn cart wheel, all conspire to suggest a home-style atmosphere, welcoming patrons in, effortlessly.

The management of the osteria is family run, and newcomers and regulars alike are greeted with a smile. The many passers-by happening there by chance wander in to savor the simple and hearty cuisine, drawn by the simple decor and the intoxicatingly inviting aroma wafting from the kitchen. The aficionados return for the unfailing plusses of the osteria: a relaxing ambiance, reliable and delectable portions.

Every day the menu changes, offering a choice between three pasta courses; five or six meat, poultry or fish entrees; few side dishes, and several desserts. All the fares served at the Enoteca Corsi belong to the authentic Roman culinary tradition, and so menu entries may include Amatriciana, Gricia, Carbonara, Pasta e Fagioli or Zuppa di Lenticchie; or the Enoteca’s signature rice timballo with sausage and eggplant; and then stewed  oxtail, codfish cooked in various ways according to season, saltimbocca, scaloppine and the house specialty: tripe. [pullquote]Customers are ushered in by the hum of the huge red 1950s refrigerator’s original engine… [/pullquote]

The Enoteca Corsi opens at noon and closes peremptorily at 3:30 p.m., serving meals only for lunch.

But come five in the afternoon, the large neighboring wood entrance next door creaks open. As the osteria’s kitchen closes, the actual Enoteca (which is Italian for wine vendor) opens shop. The historic marble countertop of the wine retail comes to life, facing the endlessly stashed shelves laden with wine bottles up to the ceiling. Customers are ushered in by the hum of the huge red 1950s refrigerator’s original engine; an old chart listing prohibited card games in a public space hangs from a nail; old fading newspaper clippings in every language framed on the walls, and a charming aura of bygone days. The two rooms are connected, restaurant and wine sales shop. And their functions intertwine.

In the afternoon, locals in ones and twos slowly drift in. They sit at the empty tables cleared of all lunch fares, chatting and ceremoniously addressing the staff like old friends. The elderly gentlemen take off their hats and order their alla spina, ‘on tap’ glasses of wine. They shuffle the cards and begin playing hands of briscola, tresette or scopone scientifico (all card games banned from the yellowed chart hanging on the wall, by the way). The image is one frozen in time, something out of a sepia turn-of-the-century photograph.

Enoteca Corsi, Rome

Via del Gesù, n.87-88

Telephone +39 06 6790821

Closed on Sundays, and during the month of August

photo by Scott Partee

American-born and Roman-bred Eleonora Baldwin is an active writer, blogger, journalist, gourmet vacation entrepreneur and photographer living in the Eternal City. Her writing appears regularly in several online food and travel columns that focus on Italian lifestyle, culinary customs and recipes, as well as her soon-to-be released cookbook-memoir, due for publication in 2016. Her blogs illustrate dishes, restaurant reviews, and useful tools for parents travelling with kids in Rome. On Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino, her most popular blog, Eleonora shared her insider knowledge about the depth of Italian cuisine. She can be spotted in and around the Eternal City guiding epicure travelers to secret food and wine locations, interviewing celebrity chefs, and capturing with her camera the essence, beauty and life that surrounds her.

This article has 11 comments

  1. Margo

    both the atmosphere and the food sound great. And as always your engages all the senses and puts me right in that photograph (in my dreams) . I think I’ll pass on the tripe. But a little pasta alla gricia sounds just right about now. Gricia is bacon, right?

  2. Eleonora

    Gricia is the name of a fabulous old Roman recipe. Shepherds used to make Gricia with the few ingredients they could keep in their satchels. Rich and nutrictious Gricia is made by gently sautéeing diced guanciale (cured pig jowl) and adding freshly boiled pasta, a healthy dusting of black pepper, and grated Pecorino Romano. This results in a grayish sauce, hence the name, Gricia–which is a Roman dialectal switch on the word grigia (gray).

  3. Roseann

    I think this is the place that you pointed out to me that day in December. I did try to find it again with some friends for lunch-but when the gates are down-it just disappears. So I did never eat there- On my list for the next time. xo

  4. Chuck

    This enoteca is a must for my next visit to Rome! Thanks for the introduction!!

  5. sabrina

    Never been there… I will certainly try it next time I’m in Rome. Thanks Ele!

  6. Terri

    Sounds perfect. We’ll look for it in May!

  7. rosaria

    The place sounds just right, good food, prepared in the traditional ways, hints of history and culture right off the street. On my list!
    Eleonora, your words paint such scrumptious pictures!

  8. Mama Zen

    Sounds fabulous!

  9. Leilani

    this sounds amazing! next time i’m in rome (hopefully sooner rather than later) i’m going to try it.

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  11. Judith Works

    Will be eating there soon

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