Postcard from Aix en Provence

Many markets in Southern France’s Provence are worth visiting, but perhaps none so much as the street market held three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday) in central Aix en Provence.  Being one of the larger Provencal markets,  there is so much of everything it can be overwhelming. So when visiting last summer, I had [...]

Shopping the Strøget

Americans pronounce Copenhagen, “Cope-en-HAY-gen,” but the Danish pronunciation is, “Ko-ben-HAAAAAA-vn,” spoken in a low register with the mouth wide open. When I arrived at entrance to the Strøget, my mouth was wide, wide open. The Strøget is a bustling network of smaller streets converging on a common square where you can sip coffee, people watch, [...]

Falling for the Red Rocks of Sedona

When I mentioned to friends that we were going to Sedona, they said things like: “Don’t forget your crystals.” “Ooooh, are you going there to have your aura cleansed?” Or most ominously, “Watch out for the psychics!” I conjured a place teeming with women with long gray hair and gypsy skirts, hawking their new age [...]

Copenhagen: Eating and Drinking at Nyhavn (Always Pack A Bottle Opener)

My Norwegian friends Therese and Ole tell me that throughout Scandinavia, Copenhagen is thought of as the “party town”.  (I found shopping in Copenhagen to also make it somewhat of a “shopping town.”) But, you can’t argue with the fact it is the only city in that part of Europe where it is legal to [...]

Ingredienti Italiani: Guanciale

Guanciale {gwanCHAleh} (aka: porky goodness) Pig’s cured jowl/neck meat is a considerable Italian delicacy, as it imparts unique flavor and smooth sumptuousness to any dish or sauce. The word guanciale means two things: a) a headrest pillow, on which you repose your cheek when you retire to bed; and b) cured pig’s fleshy and droopy [...]

Travel Moment Monday: Two Lunches in Goult, Provence

Two visits to Goult in the Luberon region of Provence that we didn’t quite realize at the time were just perfect Lunch sometimes gives us trouble when traveling in France. Not the kind of trouble you hear tales of beleaguering the digestive systems of Westerners when visiting more exotic lands, but the kind of trouble [...]

Useful Italian Words & Phrases

Taking a trip to visit a country where your native tongue is not the primary spoken language can be intimidating. But there are a number of easy things you can do to make sure you are understood in Italy. Speaking louder is not one of them; and neither is the commonplace gesticulation cliché. Italians use [...]

Lowcountry Boil or Frogmore Stew (no, frog isn’t one of the ingredients)

The exact history of Frogmore Stew has long been a topic of debate in the South Carolina Lowcountry. Most recently credit is given to Richard Gay, owner of the Gay Seafood Company on St. Helena Island, SC, for inventing the recipe in the 1960s. The story goes that one weekend while on duty with the [...]

Copenhagen's Tivoli Gardens

I would not have believed it if I had not seen it with my own eyes: an amusement park in the middle of a European capital. was commissioned by King Christian VIII of Denmark in order to raise the spirits of his people. It is said that he declared something along the lines of, “If [...]

Travel Moment Monday: Roussillon, Provence

If I close my eyes I can see the village of Roussillon nestled on a hill dotted with scrubby pine between the mountains of the Vaucluse and Luberon. Every provençal cliché is there: hot pink bougainvillea against azure blue sky, buildings in myriad shades of the same red ochre found in the landscape. We mozy [...]

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